Couture Week AW15; The Hottest Makeup Looks

Ohhhh lovely Couture Week. I may not be able to afford your clothes but luckily your makeup porn is free! A lovely little stopover before the serious Fashion Week frenzy coming up in a couple of months time, Paris Couture as always gave us glamorous, gorgeous and seriously out there makeup looks, just the way we like them! These beauties were our absolute favourites, some more wearable than others, but all as inspiring as always.

paris-couture-fashion-week-aw15-fw15-makeup-versace-pat-mcgrathAtelier Versace

Key Artist; Pat McGrath

Donatella described this season’s girls as showing the “softer side of Versace”, with their usually dark and badass eye makeup swapped out for something a whole lot sweeter.

“We’re keeping it sexy but giving it a much lighter feel with pale, shimmery greens, using the same tone for every girl,” explained Pat McGrath, about the look that was at once romantic and a little bit rock n roll. The girl’s slightly Coachella-vibed look saw them described both as 70s hipsters and “beautiful nymphs” with the forest vibe reflected in McGrath’s choice of gorgeous gold and green shades on the eyes, worn with romantic peachy cheeks and lips.

A super-pretty and wearable look… who knew rock chicks could look so fresh?!

paris-couture-fashion-week-aw15-fw15-makeup-val-garland-ulyana-sergeenko-macUlyana Sergeenko

Key Artist; Val Garland

The flapper inspired girls at Ulyana Sergeenko were described by Val Garland as rocking a take on the “morning after the party look” and walked the runway looking like beautifully disheveled dolls.

Although the deconstructed eye makeup takes centre stage, the piece de resistance are what Val wonderfully described as “kisser lips”. A highly pigmented, smudgy stain (a combo of MAC Russian Red lipstick and Mixing Medium Shine) buffed over and blurring the model’s lips.

Val said it; Snogging is now couture chic, it’s official!

 

 

paris-couture-fashion-week-aw15-fw15-makeup-schiaparelli-dick-page-macSchiaparelli

Key Artist; Dick Page

The breath-talking look created by makeup legend Dick Page for Elsa Schiaparelli’s girls was a real stand out makeup design of the week. At once soft and romantic yet bold and cartoonish, the look was simply described by Page as being “simple, chic and luminous” but is giving me serious Renaissance vibes!

The pastel shades of blue and green were hand mixed by the MAC team backstage, from a combination of their pro Paint Sticks in Cyan, Marine Ultra, True Chartreuse, and Pure White. The apples of the cheeks were stained with yet another Paint Stick in Basic Red, illuminated with Pearl Cream Colour Base, while lips were a whisper of Russian Red lipstick and Lip Conditioner. Simple, but unforgettable. 

 

paris-couture-fashion-week-aw15-fw15-makeup-giambattista-valli-val-garland-pretty-macGiamabattista Valli

Key Artist; Val Garland

As seems to happen to me every season, amongst all the super-creative makeup looks there will be an almost bare-faced creation that takes my breath away. When simple is done well there’s nothing better, and this season that crown went to Giambattista Valli.

Val Garland created the ultra contemporary romantic look, described as a modern-day Talitha Getty, by first softening a number of the girls’ brows with bleach, then layering foundation mixed with a little oil (yes oil) for the ultimate glow!

“The makeup is very real and simple,” Val explained. She chose to distill the beauty look down to three elements: that perfect glowing skin, an ultra-fine sweep of Mac’s Blacktrack Fluidline gel liner, and a “cellophane lip” created with lashings of MAC Plushglass in Ample Pink.

paris-couture-fashion-week-aw15-fw15-makeup-chanel-tom-pecheuxChanel

Key Artist; Tom Pecheux

In terms of a killer show space, Karl Lagerfeld may have taken the biscuit this season, holding court in a glamorous casino where girls walked to a backdrop of celebrities including Kirsten Stewart and Julianne Moore casually playing blackjack.

The models themselves would not be upstaged though, in their “computer designed couture” and futuristic chic hair and makeup. Their angular, severe “wig hats” framed flawless makeup by Tom Pecheux, bringing us strong angular brows and rounded red pouts in Chanel’s Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte Lip Colour in La Bouleversante (out in August). The finishing touch was killer carved out cheeks in a red 80s blush that makeup “rules” would dictate shouldn’t work but managed to look expensive, modern and utterly DIVINE.

 

paris-couture-fashion-week-aw15-fw15-makeup-maison-margiela-pat-mcgrath-blue-facepaintMaison Margiela

Key Artist; Pat McGrath

It seems almost criminal to only show you one look from this show, I barely know where to begin! definitely a wow moment on the Margiela catwalk, with a return of the dream team John Galliano and Pat McGrath.

Almost every model that walked the runway sported a wildly different makeup, from polka dots to fishnet masks, to geometric metallic designs, vampish deep burgundy lips and painterly creations like the one pictured!  Check out a full gallery of all the makeup looks courtesy of the generous folk at Fashionising.com

A definite stand out shade was the “Yves Klein blue” McGrath chose for a number of the models,a shade also in full force below… Do we detect a must have eyeliner shade? Yes please!

paris-couture-fashion-week-aw15-fw15-makeup-jean-paul-gaultier-blue-graphic-eyelinerJean Paul Gaultier

Key Artist; Stephane Marais

Classic Gaultier at his couture show saw models hit the runway in a number of sailor inspired creations, and Stephane Marais took the nautical stripes into the makeup looks beautifully with a cobalt blue graphic eyeliner look!

Elsewhere the face was kept clean and bare, “The west coast is windy, so we’ve given them healthy skin with a blush from the wind on their faces and cheeks… very pure. The whole thing is very health, not glowing but fresh,”said Marais.

Lips were given a subtle pink tint, leaving the marine stripes of the eyes to do the talking.

 

 

paris-couture-fashion-week-aw15-fw15-makeup-alexandre-vauthier-rock-chick-grunge-mac-makeup

Alexandre Vauthier

Key Artist; Christelle Cocquet

Alexandre Vauthier’s sultry girls had sex appeal in buckets, with a bronze toned take on a classic rock chick look created by Christelle Cocquet for MAC.

Over a simple base of Face and Body and the discontinued (dammit) Sunrush Lustredrops to the cheeks, girls peeked out from under disheveled fringes with grungey, heavy-lined eyes. MAC Fluidline in copper shade Rich Ground was applied dramatically as shadow, with Definitely Black Pro Longwear Eye Pencil and Pointblack Liquidlast Liner around the lashline. Clear Lip Glass was added to the eyelid just before the girls hit the runway for bonus modern-day rock chick points.

 

elieElie Saab

Key Artist; Tom Pecheux

At Elie Saab, Tom Pecheux mirrored embellished gold headbands with gilded cat-eyes, creating a “sexy glam rock” look. “I wanted to do something quite focused on richness and elegance… The focus is on the eye… we’ve worked with different golds, and amber and brown colours… but then the winged eye shape that really adds a rock n roll attitude.”

MAC’s Technakohl liner in Twinked was buffed over with Powerpoint Eye Pencil in Forever Green and a touch of Gold pro pigment to give a “vintage gold” finish. Teddy kohl finished off the top and bottom lash lines.

Freshbrew lipstick and Pro Longwear lip pencil in Etcetera created a gorgeous contrasting nude pout.

 

paris-couture-fashion-week-aw15-fw15-makeup-bouchra-jarrar-tom-pecheux-bronzed-nude-makeupBouchra Jarrar

Key Artist; Tom Pecheux

Another dreamy nude look, so simple but so so beautiful! At Bouchra Jarrar, slicked-back hair framed bone structures glowing with MAC Cream Colour Base in Pearl. A delicate detail of black liner to the waterline was what made the makeup so unique.

The look was described as “minimalist, as if the girls came out of their shower: hair let loose to dry and face cloudy with a wet spray effect.” which explains that sumptuous dewy glow to the skin! Tom Pecheux explained “I wanted to go to the essentials, transparent skin and just a slick of liner.” When it looks this good the essentials may be all you need!

 

 

dior3Dior

Key Artist; Peter Philips

At Dior, Peter Philips created a look to juxtapose the innocence of a Botticelli portrait with the “glow of sin,” resulting in glowing models with peach-stained, glistening eyes and lips, described by Philips as “subtly sensual,” and “angelically beautiful”.

Backstage, the artists prepped models’ complexions with Diorskin Star Foundation, with a dab of glycerine to give a that added glow.

Eyes were kept understated with a (yet to be released!) light coral shadow and lips were kept truly natural, just a swipe of Addict Lip Maximizer patted on for a subtle shine.” Dreamy.

 

paris-couture-fashion-week-aw15-fw15-makeup-armani-linda-cantello-hot-pink-80sArmani Privé

Key Artist; Linda Cantello

“I like to break the rules,” said makeup artist Linda Cantello backstage at Armani’s Couture show “Why do we have to wear red or dark burgundy lips in the winter? Why can’t we wear shocking pink?” The hot pink shade in question is the gorgeous forthcoming Armani Ecstasy Lacquer in Maharajah (on shelves in September). And why not indeed!

“It’s about a woman who owns it,” she added, and the girls in super-short jet black pixie crops with 80s vibes a plenty did just that. Their bold lips were matched with equally bold brows, which Cantello emphasized with Armani’s Eye And Brow Maestro. She also created a bespoke cool pink blush, a mix of Crema Nuda in Shade 1, and a touch of pink pigment.

“We couldn’t do a lip and no eye,” Linda added, smudging Armani’s Eye Tint in 7 and 12 and a sweep of grey Smooth Silk Eye Pencil around lash lines for definition, perfectly balanced with that pink pout. Could hot pink be the new red for Winter? Watch this space!

Lucy xx

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